Hurrying Slowly: The Mosel in 22 Days
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In the small hours of a rainy night in Neumagen-Dhron, Germany, peering idly from our hotel window, I saw something that looked like a shadowy train, with an occasional lighted window, passing slowly and silently beyond a thin screen of trees lining the river. There are no train tracks by the river in Neumagen-Dhron, so I watched for a full minute, mystified, as the long apparition glided by and finally out of sight.